Can’t really remember where I left off last time. But here are the basics. After another deep dive on Thursday in Nairobi, during which I get an education on the “informal economy” of Africa (unregistered, untaxed businesses which make up between 40 percent to 90 percent of the GDP in many countries) and the damage that non-governmental organizations and charitable donations are doing to Africa (creating dependencies, we went to Carnivore. Pretty sure I mentioned this last entry.
Then I played golf at the Windsor Country Club early Friday morning. The course was not in good shape. The greens had course sand all over them, which made putting extremely slow and difficult. And the rough was disastrously thick and unplayable, a one stroke penalty at least. With rented clubs and no spikes, my game was predictably unpredictable. The best part was the monkeys, however. They roam the course freely, run over to look at your ball, and gather around the tee boxes looking for handouts. Amazing creatures, really. My playing partner almost took one out with a low-liner drive.
We then returned to the hotel, packed up, and headed to the local airport to go on our safari (Swahili for “journey”). We boarded a 14-seat prop plane and headed 45 minutes west to the Masai Mara game park. As the plane was landing, a Topi (some kind of goat-like plains creature) stood square in the middle of the pebble-bed runway. Our plane landed and nearly had to pull up again to avoid a collision. That was our first animal sighting.
Two 9-passenger open-top Range Rovers picked us up at the airport and took us on Safari straightaway. Not a quarter mile from the air strip we found some elephants. There were lots of zebras, topi, antelopes, gazelles, water buffaloes, hyenas, giraffes, and others. But the best part was the Cheetahs. We tracked three of them that were slowly stalking some prey. Magnificent animals. Beautiful in every way. The only drawback was that there were at least a dozen other safari trucks jockeying for position, trying to get close to the cheetahs. Makes you feel like just another tourist, which we were.
After night fell and the rain started to come down, we headed to our camp. That Masai Mare Sorova camp was nothing short of spectacular. Surrounded in its entirety by an electric fence, it is an oasis in the middle of the bush. Ebony bridges, swimming pool, huge buffet, and personal tents that include queen beds, electricity, hot and cold water, and front porches. It was very luxurious, almost too much so. But I would later be glad of it.
I cut out of the nighttime festivities early, due to overwhelming exhaustion, and went over the bridge and through the bush to my tent. I awoke at 1:53 AM with a fire in my belly, and spent the next five hours going to the bathroom every 20 minutes, humbled by my delicate constitution yet again. I had to skip the morning game drive, and finally started returning to normal by about noon. Hard to say what gave me the dreaded TD, but whatever it was, it came and went quickly.
We lounged around the camp until about 1:30 PM, when we left to go see a real Masai village. Now, I can’t vouch for the authenticity of the village we visited. I mean, we paid twenty bucks each for the privilege of walking around the cow-dung huts and interacting with the villagers. But, I’m convinced that even if we walked willingly into a tourist trap, there was a strong dose of reality to the village. The villagers did a traditional Masai warrior dance for us, celebrating the kill of a lion. The singing involves a lot of huffing and puffing, which makes up the rhythm. And a soloist runs around shouting out celebratory stuff. Then all the men demonstrate their jumping prowess (an attempt to impress the ladies, and, presumably, NBA scouts.)
Then they showed us their huts. Tiny, dark, smelly hovels that gave me the willies to be honest. I try to be adventurous, to understand different cultures, to embrace the diversity of life on this planet, but after seeing how these people live, it makes me want to shout, “God Bless America,” and get back to my three bedroom colonial in leafy Connecticut.
We flew back to Nairobi that night, and I’m right now on the flight to Dakar, Senegal. Unlike Kenya (a former British colony in which more-or-less everyone speaks English,) Senegal is a former French colony, so I’ll be communicating with the locals a lot less, which is a pity. The Kenyans are a wonderful people, incredibly welcoming, kind, and funny. They may not move as fast as Americans, but life has a pleasant pace down here, and most are eager to laugh, given the opportunity. I expect nothing different from the Senegalese.
In the mean time, I’m very eager to get home. I miss the wife and kids something fierce and haven’t made contact with the missus in several days.
Some pics:
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